everybody's obsessed with the retro corporate aesthetic
Summary
TLDRThe video script discusses the resurgence of corporate aesthetics in fashion, often referred to as 'corporate fetish,' which includes elements from the 1980s and 1990s office culture. It explores how this trend is a romanticized view of the workplace, contrasting with the realities of office life during those decades. The script also touches on the role of corporate culture in the past, the shift towards remote work, and how the current generation perceives the corporate world differently. It highlights the appeal of work-life separation and the desire for a structured routine that the corporate aesthetic seems to offer, especially in the face of the blurred lines between personal and professional life that remote work has created.
Takeaways
- 🎥 The video discusses the resurgence of office wear in fashion and its ties to cultural shifts and nostalgia for a bygone era of corporate culture.
- 👩 Monica Lewinsky's 2024 campaign with Reformation, 'You've Got the Power,' highlights her transformation from a figure of scandal to an anti-bullying activist and a symbol of empowerment.
- 🏢 The term 'corporate fetish' captures the current trend of romanticizing office life and workwear, reflecting a cultural allure towards the office environment and its associated aesthetics.
- 📰 The script references the impact of 90s media on Lewinsky's life, including derogatory coverage that contributed to her struggles in finding employment and societal perception.
- 🧥 The fashion industry's incorporation of office wear is influenced by various eras, including the 80s and 90s, and is characterized by neutral colors, structured silhouettes, and professional attire.
- 📈 The video touches on the historical context of office wear, from the 1970s shift in women's workplace fashion to the 1980s 'Great Masculine Renunciation' of flamboyant dress.
- 👔 The script contrasts the glamorized portrayal of corporate culture in fashion with the real-life experiences and challenges faced by office workers.
- 💼 The concept of 'Commuter Core' is introduced as a sub-trend within the corporate fetish movement, focusing on the 'messy unpolished vibe' of a working woman's commute.
- 📚 The video references several influential books and films, such as 'American Psycho,' that have shaped the public's perception of corporate culture and office attire.
- 🚀 The changing perceptions of corporate culture are linked to the rise of remote work and the COVID-19 pandemic, which challenged traditional office environments and work-life balance.
- 🌟 The video concludes with a reflection on the aspirational nature of corporate aesthetics in fashion and the disconnect between the idealized and actual experiences of office life.
Q & A
Who is the CEO of the company mentioned in the video script?
-The CEO of the company mentioned in the video script is Mina Le.
What was the name of Reformation's campaign featuring Monica Lewinsky?
-The name of Reformation's campaign featuring Monica Lewinsky was 'You've Got the Power'.
What was the primary purpose of the 'You've Got the Power' campaign?
-The primary purpose of the 'You've Got the Power' campaign was to serve as a call to action for voter registration.
How did the 90s media portray Monica Lewinsky during the scandal with Bill Clinton?
-The 90s media portrayed Monica Lewinsky in a largely negative light, with the Wall Street Journal referring to her as 'a little tart' and Maureen Dowd, who won a Pulitzer Prize for her coverage, calling her 'a ditsy, predatory White House intern'.
What is the term that has been used to describe the current trend of office wear in fashion?
-The term used to describe the current trend of office wear in fashion is 'corporate fetish', as coined by writer Emily Sundberg.
What is the significance of the movie 'American Psycho' in relation to the corporate fashion trend?
-The movie 'American Psycho', set in the 1980s, is significant to the corporate fashion trend as it showcased the late 1980s boom economy and Wall Street culture through its costumes, which have influenced modern fashion designers and campaigns.
How has the COVID-19 pandemic influenced the perception of corporate culture and work-life?
-The COVID-19 pandemic has led to a radical shift in priorities for many, emphasizing work-life balance and flexibility. It has demonstrated that remote work is possible without compromising productivity, leading to a resistance to return to old corporate work structures.
What is the term 'Commuter Core' and how does it relate to the corporate fashion trend?
-Commuter Core is a term that refers to the messy, unpolished vibe of a working woman before she steps into the office. It is part of the corporate fashion trend that romanticizes the everyday life of a commuter, featuring styles like large bags, hoodies under blazers, and sneakers.
What was John Molloy's advice for women's business attire in his book 'The Woman's Dress For Success Book'?
-John Molloy advised women to dress as if they were already successful, with an ideal uniform consisting of a skirted suit and blouse, a dark suit with a light-colored blouse, and skirt slightly below knee length, paired with natural color pantyhose and simple pumps.
How has the concept of 'work-life separation' contributed to the appeal of corporate aesthetics in 2024?
-The concept of 'work-life separation' has contributed to the appeal of corporate aesthetics by offering a sense of control and containment of work within a specific environment. This idea is attractive in contrast to the overstimulation and constant connectivity of modern remote work.
What is the 'coolification' agenda referred to in the script, and how does it relate to corporate culture?
-The 'coolification' agenda refers to the past decade's trend where large tech companies designed their offices to be more than just workspaces, but also homes and lifestyles, offering extensive perks to increase productivity and loyalty. However, this concept has become less appealing as company scandals and layoffs have revealed the potential downsides of such corporate environments.
Outlines
📢 Introduction to Squarespace and Fashion Trends
The video is sponsored by Squarespace, a platform for building brands and growing businesses online. The CEO, Mina Le, welcomes new hires and discusses the company's focus on fashion, culture, and media. The video highlights Monica Lewinsky's role in Reformation's 2024 campaign, which aimed to increase voter registration and garnered significant media exposure. Lewinsky's transformation from a public figure to an anti-bullying activist is explored, along with the negative impact of the 1990s media coverage on her life. The video also touches on the modern reframing of Lewinsky's story and the fashion trends inspired by office wear, including the use of Squarespace for business needs.
👔 The Evolution of Corporate Fashion and its Current Trend
The script discusses the prevalence of neutral colors and office wear in current fashion, with terms like 'corporate fetish' and 'office siren' being used to describe the trend. It references the impact of the movie 'American Psycho' and its costume design on modern fashion, as well as the influence of 1980s and 1990s fashion elements. The narrative also includes the role of fashion in the corporate world, with examples from New York Fashion Week and various campaigns that feature corporate aesthetics. The idea of 'commuter core' is mentioned as a romanticized version of the working woman's style before entering the office.
💼 The History of Women's Corporate Attire
This paragraph delves into the history of professional attire for women, noting the significant shift in the 1970s as more women joined the workforce. John Molloy's 'Dress for Success' books are highlighted for their advice on workplace attire, with a focus on the importance of dressing for success and the appropriate uniform for women. The resistance to pantsuits for women and the subsequent changes in office dress codes are also discussed, reflecting the evolving gender norms and legal challenges in the workplace.
🤵 The Suit as a Symbol of Authority and Masculinity
The script explores the suit's history as a symbol of authority and masculinity, tracing its origins back to the 18th century. It discusses the post-war association of suits with traits like discipline and rigidness. The narrative also touches on the individualization of dress in the late 1960s and 1970s, using the TV show 'Mad Men' as an example of this shift. The impact of economic booms on the popularity of classic suits and the advice literature of the time is also considered.
👗 Navigating Women's Business Dress Codes
The video examines the conflicting advice given to women regarding business attire, particularly the debate over wearing sexy clothing in the office. It outlines the potential risks and benefits of such attire, emphasizing the importance of developing a personal style to stand out in the workplace. The video also discusses how dress codes can be a form of control over workers, using examples from magazine articles and interviews to illustrate the point.
🏢 The Corporate Fetish and its Impact on Fashion
The script discusses the 'corporate fetish' trend in fashion, contrasting it with the realities of 90s office life. It highlights the shift in priorities brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic, leading to a preference for remote work and flexibility. The narrative also touches on the rise of the 'fake email job' and the decline of traditional corporate culture. The video suggests that the corporate aesthetic has become aspirational due to the obsolescence of traditional office environments and the desire for work-life separation.
📈 The Political and Social Implications of Corporate Fashion
The video concludes with a reflection on the political implications of corporate fashion, particularly the suit, as a symbol of the capitalist era of the 1980s. It discusses the inequalities faced by various groups in the corporate world and the impact of economic recessions on office workers. The script also contrasts the retro corporate lifestyle with the modern 'coolification' of tech companies, suggesting a desire to dissociate from the negative aspects of corporate culture.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Squarespace
💡Monica Lewinsky
💡Reformation Collection
💡Corporate Fetish
💡Office Siren
💡Patrick Bateman
💡Commuter Core
💡Work-Life Balance
💡Zoomer
💡Silicon Valley
💡Cubicle Culture
Highlights
Monica Lewinsky became the face of Reformation's February 2024 campaign, 'You've Got the Power,' generating over $2 million in media exposure and promoting voter registration.
Monica Lewinsky's story has been revisited by feminists, with a focus on the press's treatment of her and the impact of negative media coverage on her life.
The Reformation Collection, inspired by office workwear, features Monica Lewinsky in a powerful, non-intern role, symbolizing a modern reframing of her narrative.
The video discusses the incorporation of office wear in fashion, exploring its evolution and significance in contemporary culture.
Squarespace is presented as an all-in-one platform for building a brand and growing a business online, offering customizable templates and integrated e-commerce tools.
The term 'corporate fetish' encapsulates the glamorization of office culture and its influence on current fashion trends.
The 'office siren' look is a specific subset of corporate fetish, drawing from early 2000s fashion trends and characterized by items like Bayonetta glasses and tight pencil skirts.
The movie 'American Psycho' and its costume design have had a significant impact on modern fashion, with Patrick Bateman's wardrobe reflecting late 1980s Wall Street culture.
The prevalence of neutral colors and office attire in fashion shows, such as Luar's collection inspired by Fifth Avenue's corporate culture, indicates a broader cultural shift towards 'corporate fetish'.
The concept of 'Commuter Core' is introduced as a sub-trend within corporate fetish, focusing on the pre-office look of a working woman.
Historically, the 1970s marked a significant shift for women's fashion in the workplace, with John Molloy's 'Dress for Success' books influencing professional attire.
The advice for women on professional dressing has often been conflicting, with some advocating for a conservative approach while others suggest using appearance to stand out.
The importance of developing a personal style for career advancement is emphasized, despite the potential for consumerism-driven advice.
The COVID-19 pandemic has led to a radical shift in work priorities and a reevaluation of corporate culture, with a focus on work-life balance and remote work possibilities.
The term 'fake email job' has emerged on TikTok, describing aspirational remote roles that offer flexibility and minimal oversight.
Remote work is said to have diminished workplace culture, leading to a yearning for the structured separation between work and personal life that traditional office settings provided.
The corporate core trend may be a response to the loss of traditional office life and a desire for work-life separation in a time of increased remote work and blurred boundaries.
Transcripts
- This video is brought to you by Squarespace, an all-in-one platform for building a brand and
growing your business online. Coming to you live from our New York City headquarters, this is your
CEO speaking. My name is Mina Le, and welcome new hirees! And on this channel, we talk about,
or sorry, in this company, we talk about fashion, culture and media. So in case you missed it,
Monica Lewinsky became the face of Reformation's February, 2024 campaign, "You've Got the Power,"
which generated more than $2 million in media exposure. The purpose of the campaign was to
call to action for voter registration. Monica Lewinsky is an anti-bullying activist. She's
a writer and a producer, though she first made headlines as the 22-year-old White House intern,
who Bill Clinton had an 18-month long affair with during his presidency. This is all made public
in 1998, and of course, because this was the 90s, the Wall Street Journal referred to her in print,
as "a little tart." And Maureen Dowd won a Pulitzer Prize for her coverage of Lewinsky,
in which she called her, "a ditsy, predatory White House intern." An intern being predatory towards
the President. Love to hear it. Don't you miss 90s media, everyone? Lewinsky has talked at length
of how the negative press coverage affected her life afterwards. In 2021, she told the Hollywood
Reporter, "Just because I wasn't on the news every night for 20 years in the same way that I
was in 1998, doesn't mean that the story ended. 10 years on, I still could not get a job. I couldn't
support myself." In the last several years, some feminists have revisited the Clinton-Lewinsky
scandal and specifically, the press's treatment of Monica. As Helen Rumbelow writes for the Times UK,
"Those in their 50s now reflect on their younger selves watching the slut-shaming vilification of
a peer and doing nothing, or joining in. Those in their teens and 20s are meeting Lewinsky afresh
as the patron saint of young women whose lives were casually ruined by rapacious men in power."
The Reformation Collection is inspired by office workwear, with Monica wearing a button-down blouse
tie and matching waist coat and skirt, and a few photos posed in an office space overlooking the
city skyline. She's no longer giving intern, she's giving boss, but like in a cool, sexy,
retro way, and not in a cringey 2016 lean-in, girl boss, kinda way. This was a really smart move for
Reformation, in my opinion. And the reason there was such a good response is in part because of
the modern reframing of Lewinsky's story. And also because of the trending silhouettes of the actual
clothing collection. Today I wanna talk about the incorporation of office wear in fashion these
days. How we got here, and what this means for us. Despite what this video is about, we aren't in the
1980s anymore, and most people who work need to have a website. And Squarespace makes the process
as simple as possible. Squarespace offers pre-made templates to get you started, but don't feel
stifled. Once you select one, you can personalize it however you want, so that your page reflects
the uniqueness of your business. If you have products to sell, you can easily open your store
native with Squarespace's tools to sell anything from physical products to downloadable products
to memberships. And Squarespace also makes it easy for you to engage with your clients through their
email newsletter feature. You can introduce your brand, your work, or yourself to new subscribers
with welcome emails, or send announcements for an upcoming sale, or let your top customers know of
a secret discount code. Check out squarespace.com for a free trial and when you're ready to launch,
go to squarespace.com/minale to get 10% off your first purchase of a website or a domain.
- It makes me wish I had a job.
- I've seen so many terms getting tossed around. Office siren, corporate fetish,
geek chic, corpcore, businesscore, among other names, to describe what's happening
in fashion right now. That is the prevalence of neutrals, especially the color gray, button-ups,
blazers, pantsuits, pencil skirts and ties on the runway. I think the term corporate fetish,
which was dubbed by writer Emily Sundberg, is the term I vibe with the most.
- That's the one!
- It encapsulates the general cultural lure of office wear today and is less defined by
individual trends like Bayonetta glasses. Sundberg describes the phenomena as this. "The corporate
fetish is when people glamorize the idea of an office, the water cooler conversations, getting
dressed, actually dressed, dry-cleaner-pick-up dressed, for an eight to seven job, and spinning
around in a desk chair. This is all while office occupancy hovers around 50% in New
York." In comparison, the office siren look is very specific, and is underneath the corporate
fetish umbrella, but mostly takes from early 2000s fashion trends, like Bayonetta glasses, button up
blouses that are buttoned down to the cleavage to reveal a little pushup bra, tight pencil skirts,
and slingback kitten or stiletto heels. But in actuality, what's happening in the culture goes
beyond the early 2000s to also include a lot of 1980s and 1990s elements as well. For example,
back in the Fall of 2022, Byrdie put out an article called, "Why is Every Fashion Girl Dressed
like Patrick Bateman Right Now?" Well, Patrick Bateman, the lead character of the movie "American
Psycho," did debut in the popular zeitgeist in the year 2000. The movie actually takes
place in the 1980s and costume designer, Isis Mussenden, did a fantastic job, in my opinion.
- Don't tell me, don't tell me, let me guess. Mm, Valentino couture.
- She dressed Christian Bale and his colleagues in couture suits to underscore the late 1980s
boom economy and its corresponding self-obsessed Wall Street culture. She said in an interview,
"The Italian house of Cerruti sent me the catalogs of their collections from those days,
and I chose some designs which they then remade from the original patterns." As just a fun fact,
the film actually had issues with designer labels because of the subject matter,
the murderous subject matter. Cerruti only agreed to let Christian Bale wear their clothes when his
character was not killing someone, and Comme des Garcons apparently refused to allow one
of their overnight bags to be used to carry a corpse. So they used Jean Paul Gaultier
instead. Gaultier would definitely be down for this movie, which I think is so hilarious.
- Where did you get that overnight bag?
- Jean Paul Gaultier.
- "American Psycho" is also based on the Bret Easton Ellis book of the same name.
And in the book, Patrick Bateman is equally, if not more obsessed with clothing. And he and his
coworkers regularly discuss fashion trends with each other. I skimmed through this book on my
Kindle because I don't think I have the stomach to actually read this. I've just, I don't know, I've
just heard that it's really sadistic and violent and much worse than the movie. And once again,
I have a weak stomach. I couldn't even watch "Game of Thrones," so I didn't read it. But I
found a blog where the writer, Kyle Barbeau, tried to chronicle all mentions of branded
clothing in the book and found over 60 mentions before giving up. Spoiler, most of the items are
Armani. Bateman also wears a 1980s, two-toned Rolex Datejust 16013, which he references in
the movie as well. But the one Christian Bale actually wears is a dupe, the Seiko SNXJ90,
because Rolex didn't wanna be on the wrist of a serial killer. Which, you know, can we blame them?
It's not the best endorsement. If only they knew how impactful "American Psycho" would be today,
in terms of fashion. I'm gonna read a passage here from the book regarding one of Bateman's suits,
to give a sense of how detailed Ellis gets with these style descriptions. "The suit I wear today
is from Alan Flusser. It's an 80s drape suit, which is an updated version of the 30s style. The
favored version has extended natural shoulders, a full chest and a bladed back. The soft-rolled
lapel should be about four inches wide with the peak finishing three quarters of the way across
the shoulders. Properly used on double-breasted suits, peaked lapels are considered more elegant
than notched ones." He keeps going, but I think you get the gist. As you can see in the movie,
Bateman wears a Valentino dinner jacket that has the 1930s-esque double-breasted,
peaked lapel design he mentions. This is all super in line with actual 1980s formal wear. By the way,
GQ's December, 1984, Annual Formal Wear Review, states, "To be sure, the 30s remain the
inspiration. Double-breasted dinner jackets with peaked satin, or grosgrain lapels." So I mean,
Ellis definitely did do his research. There's also a gym outfit featured in the book that's
not in the movie that's lifted entirely from the May, 1988 issue of GQ. Bateman narrates,
"I slip into a pair of crow-black cotton and Lycra shorts with a white waistband and side stripes
and a cotton and Lycra tank top, both by Wilkes, which can be folded so tightly that I can actually
carry them in my briefcase." Honestly, I would've loved to see this outfit in the movie. But let's
get back to the present day runway. At the most recent New York Fashion Week, Luar's collection,
which featured broad shouldered tops and jackets was inspired by designer Raul Lopez's childhood
people-watching the corporate crew on Fifth Avenue and Wall Street. The luxury knitwear
brand, The Elder Statesman, based their recent campaign on New York City's corporate culture as
well. According to Emily Sundberg, who messaged the brand's Creative Director, Bailey Hunter,
the theme was "American Psycho." The campaign also shot in the WSA, an old office building that's
getting revamped by the hospitality management company, Happier People. WSA IG bio currently
reads, "A new downtown hub blurring the lines of the arts, production, working space, food,
play and culture. An 80s icon." The vintage office space itself is of course included in this larger
corporate trend and we can see it as a backdrop of many other campaigns, including Balenciaga's
Spring 2023 campaign, the Skims Ultimate Nipple Bra campaign, and following Kim Kardashian GQ
photo shoot, the Lewinsky Reformation campaign, Boyish Beauty's Brow Duo campaign, among others.
I'd even include campaigns that embrace the clunky lo-fi UI seen on old computers as part of this
trend. Corporate fetish has gone so far as to include commuting culture, dubbed by Harper's
Bazaar as "Commuter Core," which I honestly think this is just like splitting the atom at
this point, and I think it's a fake term. Because I literally haven't seen this term used anywhere,
and I looked on TikTok hashtags, couldn't find anything. But apparently, commuter core refers
to the messy unpolished vibe of a working girl. Like what she looks like before she even steps
into the office. Like all core aesthetics, it's a romanticized version, so this working girl is not
a girl working an entry-level job who can't afford a taxi. She's inherently a cool girl at the start
of her adult life. Features of the style include large bags, hoodies under blazers, wrinkled trench
coats and sneakers. If you've seen the 1998 movie "Working Girl," the main character, Tess McGill,
iconically switches her white sneakers for pumps while at the office, showcasing the reality of
many commuting women of her time. The so-called "commuter core" is a fetishization of her with
the sneakers still on. Miu Miu's Fall/Winter 2024 runway show hail the commuter girl with their big
leather top handle bags seemingly loaded to the brim with so much stuff that they're too heavy to
carry by the handles. New York designer, Jane Wade, even titled her Spring 2024 collection,
"The Commute," saying that she was inspired by her own experience working in corporate fashion.
- Oh, so you're wearing a suit?
- What's it gotta do with you?
- [Mina] It's been customary for people to wear professional outfits long before
the 1980s. But Patricia Cunningham notes the 1970s as a major shift for women's
fashion in the workplace. Because more women were joining than ever
before. So the question was, "What should women wear to the office?"
- I don't know what to wear.
- Ever?
- John Molloy stepped up with an answer. Don't you love it when a man steps up to answer? He actually
published two manuals, "Dress For Success," in 1975, for men, and the women's version,
"The Woman's Dress For Success Book," in 1977. In the woman's guide, Molloy emphasized
that a woman's outfit choice could be the reason for her success or her failure in the workplace.
He wrote this scathing critique of the fashion industry in his introduction, which I thought
was really funny. "A society in which the people in power are intent on keeping women barefoot,
pregnant, and as far from the boardroom as possible cannot design clothes for women who
have serious executive ambitions. The fact that the fashion industry's big number of the mid-1970s
was the peasant dress, often made with the yards of taffeta, shows how out of step the fashion
industry really is. And while the Europeans design clothes that will keep you at home,
the Americans are churning out garments that will keep you in the secretarial pool." Honestly,
reading some of the chapters in this book, Molloy was actually way more progressive than
I thought he would be. His book for woman largely supported the same standards and methods he used
in his book for men. The main idea for whatever gender, was that you should dress as if you were
already successful. His ideal uniform consisted of a skirted suit and blouse, preferably a dark suit
with a light colored blouse. And the skirt should be slightly below knee length with natural color
pantyhose and simple pumps. Accessory options include a feminine fedora, a contrasting scarf,
a plain wristwatch, and a leather attache case. Where he majorly flops is his attitude
towards pants. Molloy wrote, "In most business offices, the pantsuit is a failure outfit."
- That is enough. And shut up. I hate you.
- Well, this attitude towards pants comes across as really annoying, especially today. Molloy was
actually pretty tame in comparison to other men of his era, which tells you all you need to know
about men in that era. In the 1970s, there were actual offices, schools, and even restaurants that
forbade women from wearing pants. As a response to the changing political climate, women protested
and some filed lawsuits against their employers, arguing that not allowing women to wear pants but
allowing men to do so violated Title VII of the 1964 Civil Rights Act, which outlawed sex
discrimination in employment. In response, many employers start to allow pantsuits and even mini
skirts as acceptable office attire. So it's been like a six decades of corporate pantsuit-hood for
women, but suits are still a masculine coated garment. Probably because men have just been
wearing suits for a lot longer. They've basically been wearing some version of the suit ever since
"The Great Masculine Renunciation," which is a very funnily named phenomena coined by John Carl
Flugel to describe men's widespread adoption of plain dress at the end of the 18th century.
Because in case you forgot, Western men used to dress like this. The suit also carried an air
of authority, discipline, and rigidness, traits associated with masculinity in the post-war era.
James F. Bere, a former chief executive who worked in the 1950s, once told a reporter, "We were all
the same way. We all wore white shirts with our suits. The thing here, the tie, is one of the
craziest things ever invented. The symbolism of the tie had some elitism in it. It told the world
that you were a manager. The suit was mandatory. It never even entered my mind to challenge that.
It was just what we did. We never complained about wearing uniforms in the Army, so we certainly
weren't going to complain about wearing suits in the business world. What you had to understand
about that time is that when the boss said, "Be there," you were there. You were totally committed
to your job. Your responsibility was to be there. No excuses." There was a moment in the late 60s
and 70s where suits and overall dress became more individualized, however. You can see this
progression really clearly in the period TV show, my favorite TV show, "Mad Men," which spans the
entirety of the 1960s. At the start of the show, all the businessmen are wearing their identical
gray flannel suits. And by the end of the show, there are characters like Stan Rizzo, who comes
to the office in more relaxed, colorful attire. Much of the return to drab colors and standardized
dress can be, in my opinion, just like the result of trend cycles. Even though John Molloy gets
a lot of credit for suggesting classic dress in the workplace, before he even published his book,
classic suits were already on the rise. For example, at the Dallas Convention Center in 1974,
the middle-of-the-market buyers, 60% of the market, were shunning the more contemporary
Shantung jumpsuits and patchwork jackets, and heading for safer classics. Blue blazers, gray
slacks and button-down shirts. And Forbes reported that suit sales jumped 4.4% in 1976, with classic
suits even being purchased by the guy who never bought a suit in his life. They noted that even
the vested suit was making a comeback. Molloy's book and other advice books were probably so well
received also because the economy was booming. And more people were hungry to be climbing up the
corporate ladder. But let's get back to women. If you are a woman, how are you going to climb that
corporate ladder? Jennifer Paff Ogle and Mary Lynn Damhorst analyzed business dress advice for women
from 84 magazines and newspaper articles published from 1986 to 1994. And found that there was
actually a lot of conflicting advice on whether or not you should wear sexy clothing to the office.
- Your outfit.
- What? What's wrong with my outfit?
- [Mina] Some authors said that wearing blatantly suggestive dress increased a woman's chances of
harassment, increased chances of rumors alleging that the wearer's success was based on something
other than her job performance, if you catch my drift. And that woman should just not rely
upon their feminine wiles to get ahead in the workplace because they have so many other skills,
like intellect, creativity, and competence. The articles that were pro-suggestive dress claimed
that a woman should use all her available resources to reach success. And that at
some point, women should be able to depart from the male standards of conduct, which I
guess include looking unsexy, once they got their footing in the business. Regardless, there was
a general consensus that women should develop a personal style because looking extremely drab or
conservative is often boring and doesn't make you stand out in front of all the other people working
this job. And women should therefore use their appearance in some way to help them move up the
career ladder. Even though magazines and companies go out of their way to shell out products,
and a lot of this advice could be seen as attempts to promote consumerism, there's actually truth in
how important it is to dress appropriately for the office. At least, pre-pandemic. Nowadays, I
think it's more important to at least know how to dress appropriately from the torso up. **Samira Guerra
wrote about how the corporate dress code is a way of exercising control over
workers. In 2015, they talked to a 30-something year old market researcher named Heather, who
lived in London. Her company had a casual Friday dress code, where they could wear jeans. However,
Heather said, "On these days, I wouldn't probably get up as much and walk around because I'm
conscious of the fact that I'm wearing jeans and I don't want people to notice and it doesn't look
professional." Heather also talked about a former colleague who once received a letter from HR about
how her revealing dresses were inappropriate. The authors write, "The fact that Heather's colleague
was approached by a faceless HR department illustrates this disindividualized, panoptic power
at work in her office environment." But corporate fetish glosses over actual dress codes. Much of
what we see in these fashion campaigns would actually be wildly inappropriate for the office,
if 90s standards are to be abided by. So maybe all of this is subversion at the end of the day,
it's reinterpreting codes we're all familiar with to create new meaning. For some, putting
on an oversized business suit could give them the feeling of control that a Wall Street executive
had, made even more subversive if the person wearing it is someone who in actuality, faces more
glass ceilings than the straight, White man. For others, dressing in edgy business clothes, while
hating your job, could be ironic. For whatever the reason, corporate aesthetics have become
aspirational in 2024. And it might be because of how non-existent corporate culture has become,
at least in comparison to what it was. It's even more interesting, given all the think pieces about
how Gen Z is the most anti-work generation to date. The reason we're seeing this anti-work,
or less work agenda, is partially due to the COVID-19 pandemic, which activated as,
Angela Yang writes, "A radical shift in priorities as people around the world, especially those who
had the means to isolate at home, discovered new passions and a slower pace of life. Corporate jobs
pivoting to remote work showed for the first time, and on a massive scale, that flexibility in work
was possible without compromising productivity. And now that employees have gotten a taste,
they're refusing return to old ways." The term "fake email job" has spawned on TikTok recently
to describe the kind of aspirational jobs that are usually remote, require few hard skills,
have little managerial oversight, and with little time commitment. And even though Gen Z gets a
bad rep for their supposed not wanting to work, I think it's not bad to want work-life balance, and
to not wanna have your work be your entire life. And to also be able to have time to do things that
you wanna do and to not wanna sit in traffic for three hours commuting. I think it's less about
not wanting to work, and more about wanting to not have work be your entire life. But regardless of
how much you're actually working at your remote job, one thing most people can agree on, is that
remote work has killed the workplace culture. The Wall Street Journal interviewed Priya Parker,
author of "The Art of Gathering, How We Meet and Why It Matters." Parker explains, "On Zoom, when
everything is muted, the signals that you get as to whether or not a group is with you are deleted.
It becomes a sterile environment. You can't hear people's sighs, groans or laughs. It destroys one
of the core elements of group conversation, which is a feedback loop: call and response." That's not
to say that remote work is all bad. It makes some jobs more accessible for disabled folks,
can be beneficial for parents who have young kids who can't afford childcare. And some jobs,
like these fake email jobs, really don't require someone to sit in an office for
eight hours a day. But all this is to say is that corporate culture has become sort of obsolete for
many people. Michelle Santiago Cortes observed for Dirt media. "Shards of corporate culture's
remains are now floating around social media as memes or congealing into dystopian novels like
'Severance,' or 'The Other Black Girl.' 'Finance bros' and 'tech bros' are still easy shorthand,
but nobody quite knows where they work anymore." I also noticed that most of the
corporate fetishizers are people who have never worked a real, cubicle office job to begin with.
And so it's unsurprising that the 2024 fashion version of the 90s office is a better, unrealistic
version of what it was. Emily Sundberg explains the difference. "The corporate fetish office
provides structure, routine and friends. Nobody is discussing the dreadful commute, or awful hours,
or the looming horror of AI replacing a team. Everyone answers the phone and nobody is texting
at their desk. It's the best version of the office we imagine, and the one that we're not going to
get anything close to as people get forced back in." There's also a sure crossover between this
aestheticization and the old corporate fashion magazine industry, as exemplified by "The Devil
Wears Prada." I think a lot of young people, me included, had the dream of working at a fashion
magazine in like a Andy Sachs, Jenna Rink, Carrie Bradshaw kinda way. While these women didn't dress
for the office in accordance with the corporate handbook, they did have seemingly high-earning,
glamorous positions, in the corporate world with opportunities to move up the ladder. They also
didn't have iPhones. But as magazines become less powerful, and journalists become less respected,
the dream has burst for many people. But ultimately I think one of the biggest drivers of
this trend is the desire for work-life separation. There's the idea that a place of work also means
a place where that work is contained. The minute you step out of the office door, you're no longer
on call, no longer expected to answer emails, and no longer thinking about work until you head to
the office the following morning. Obviously this is an oversimplification of what work life was
actually like, but compared to now, when many of us are overstimulated by email and Slack,
pinging at all hours of the day, and the overall exhaustion of tech screen exposure,
yes, the 90s office life could appear like a dream. Of course there's also non-office fantasy
reasons that make corporate core more enticing for the fashion industry at large. For one,
the quiet luxury movement last year was a small bag movement. It also coincided with "Succession,"
a show which denigrated the ludicrously capacious bag as being a symbol of too poorism.
- What's even in there? Huh? Flat shoes for the subway? Her lunch pail?
- Also in general, small bags have just been having a moment for years now because of the
recycled Y2K small bag trend. So it makes sense that large bags would become trendy again because
trend cycles, they cycle. Even quiet luxury brand, The Row, released their own capacious Birkin-esque
bag, the Margaux. I also came across this newsletter, Cartoons Hate Her, which talked about
the revival of "The Boobs" era, which I don't even know if I'm allowed to use these terms because of
YouTube policy, so I'm going to refer to them as "the cleavage and the butt" era. I think I can
say butt. The writer makes the case that we were previously in a butt era for 15 years. She writes,
"It was new and exciting to see Kim Kardashian in 2009 when we were on the tail of the 2000s, which
was a Skinny Era and Cleavage Era. Women were no longer afraid to get bulky in the gym. In fact,
we intended on it, as long as it was confined to our glutes. Everyone wanted a big butt, including
girls who were terrified of having a big butt just five years earlier." And 2010s fashion trends like
athleisure and high waisted jeans correlated with the butt era. But ultimately, pendulums swing,
and that applies to body types too, which is why everyone was freaking out when Kim Kardashian
allegedly reversed her BBL. Furthermore, the author suggests that the office siren,
with its button-down blouse is a sign of the Cleavage Era transition. In my personal 2024 "Ins
and Outs" list, I put menswear as an in and bows as an out. And I think the corporate core trend
is complementary to my prediction, not to brag. We just had a period of girl everything. Girl dinner,
girl math, girl blah, blah, blah. My girl culture soundbite from YouTube even became
a trend on TikTok, which was weird. And so naturally it makes sense that people would
grow tired of this and hop onto the opposite, which is adulthood. And I don't know about you,
but I feel like the stereotype of adulthood, to me, is a business suit and high heels,
the image of our parents when growing up in the 80s, 90s and/or 2000s.
- Just trying to locate my cubicle. I can't find it anywhere.
- For anyone who's actually worked in one of these 90s time-capsule offices,
fashion's corporate fetish might sound like a joke. People of my parents' generation remember
a time when office culture was a normal thing to complain about, not aspire to. In 1992,
Robert Downey Jr. visited Wall Street for a documentary and said this to the camera.
- If money is evil, then that building is hell. This is the most obnoxious group of money hungry,
low IQ, high energy jackrabbit, wannabe big time, small-time talking, bothersome,
irritating, I have ever had to endure for more than five minutes.
- [Mina] When Christian Bale visited Wall Street to prepare for his role as Patrick Bateman,
he told GQ, "I got there and a bunch of the guys on the trading floor, they were going,
'Oh yeah, we love Patrick Bateman.' And I was like, 'Yeah, ironically,
right?' And they were like, 'What do you mean?'" Throughout the 80s and 90s, plenty of movies,
books and shows highlighted the problems with corporate executive greed. And in 1999,
Hollywood even focused on the monotony of office life that stifled the everyday worker.
- Sounds like somebody's got a case of the Mondays!
- There's a really great "Now You See It" video essay on this. The guy calls these movies,
"Cubicle movies." I'll play a clip from his video.
- [Narrator] "Being John Malkovich," and to an extent, all cubicle movies,
seem to reflect this idea in some way. Social forces compel us to conform ourselves
into a certain definition of success, like having the good job and a comfortable life.
But having to do this requires the belief that who we already are isn't good enough.
- But I think the disconnect here for Zoomers and young millennials, other than the fact that we
never actually experienced 90s office life, is the fact that Silicon Valley's coolification agenda in
the 2010s feels almost worse. What I mean by coolification is, for the last 10-plus years,
we've seen these large tech companies build out their offices to create not just a working
environment, but a home, a lifestyle. A New York Times reporter took a look at a Google
office in 2013 and noted the "labyrinth of play areas, cafes, coffee bars and open kitchens,
sunny outdoor terraces with chaises, gourmet cafeterias that serve free breakfast, lunch
and dinner. Broadway-themed conference rooms with velvet drapes, and conversation areas designed to
look like vintage subway cars." The office perks, while nice, were designed to keep people in the
office for longer, maximizing productivity while building company loyalty. Once revolutionary, now
it's cheugy. It doesn't help that more and more founders and executives are caught in the middle
of company scandals, getting arrested for fraud, facing lawsuits, tweeting just insane takes,
and ultimately shattering the illusion of a prestigious working environment. Last year,
Reuters published an in-depth report on Axon, the company that makes tasers,
and its fraternity-style hazings that involved, you guessed it, tasing their own employees. And
just in the face of mass layoffs over the past year or so, it's also clear that company loyalty
is not that prized, after all. After FTX filed for bankruptcy in November, Brian Chesky, the
Chief Executive of Airbnb tweeted, "It feels like we were in a nightclub and the lights just turned
on." The desire to dissociate from your boss has never been more necessary. And people are all but
trying to separate the corporate body from its demonic head. In contrast, the retro 80s and 90s
corporate lifestyle appears brandless. There are no logos and no Elon Musks. You have no idea what
company any character in "Fight Club" or "Office Space" works for because the identical monotony
signifies only work. The idea of work, and nothing more. But of course, the idea of work itself is
political. After all, the 1980s catapulted a new era of capitalism. Management got more
powerful and declining union membership gradually reduced the influence of big labor. Corporations
accelerated this trend by closing factories where unions were strong, shifting production
to Sunbelt states that had long anti-union traditions, and attacking government antitrust
and regulatory policies. Ronald Reagan, who was president from 1981 to 1989, famously said,
- Government is not the solution to our problem. Government is the problem.
- Not to mention that it was the white collar, straight White man who benefited the most.
People of color, women, working class, and queer people all faced brutal inequalities, workplace
harassment and barriers to success. And as Annette Lynch and Katalin Medvedev put it simply,
"Suits never do their own dirty work. They are not that kind of 'work clothes.' The suits are not on
the front lines in Libya, Iraq, or Afghanistan. Class-based power has its privileges. And one of
them is not to soil your clothes." But in 1990, not even the white collar White man was fully
spared. America entered a recession, and within two years, 1.1 million office workers had been
laid off, many of them from the middle management tier. Nikil Saval, who wrote "Cubed: A Secret
History of the Workplace," told Vox, "During this time, layoffs became common, and there was a rapid
increase in mergers, and you had workers emerging from them and being thrown into cubicles. So the
cubicle became the symbol of the transforming workplace, of impermanence and the disposability
of workers." Because of the economic context, and also because cubicles were actually getting
smaller, complaints against cubicles ballooned in the 90s. Some people compared them to prisons.
- Hopefully it won't be too much like prison.
- Ironically, in Texas, a prison system responded to overcrowding by redesigning their jails along
the lines of an open-plan office with cubicle partitions. But like most aesthetics of today,
corporate fetish is vibes forward. I think it says a lot that in all these corporate movies, we
rarely see what it is the employees are actually working on. Even in shows like "Mad Men," that's
literally about work, where most of the show takes place in an office, there's an air of work,
but the everyday drudgery is off-screen. The more exciting bits, the socializing,
the drinking, the dinners with clients, the flashy presentations, that's what we're shown. And it
makes sense because these movies and shows were coming at a time when people were still mostly in
the office. And so this media was an escape from that office life. No one wants to come back home
from work to see more work. And also would just be bad storytelling. Like the idea of having a show
where people just send emails and copy papers, who wants to watch that? But I think this is
why most corporate fetishizers are people who have never experienced the reality of it. If they did,
they'd probably be more obsessed with a different experience. Maybe next on the slate, for instance,
will be a retirement core. Anyways, this is the end of the video. Thank you all for watching.
My name is Mina, and I hope you have a lovely rest of your day. And take the day off. Bye.
- Congratulations.
- Thanks.
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