A Day Making NYC's Most Hyped Burgers at Hamburger America | On The Line | Bon Appétit
Summary
TLDRGeorge Motz, a burger enthusiast with 25 years of passion, has transformed his love for hamburgers into a successful career, culminating in the opening of his dream restaurant. This documentary follows Motz's journey from filmmaker to author and TV host, exploring the history and craftsmanship of hamburgers. The restaurant showcases his dedication to authentic burger-making techniques, including the use of a proprietary onion slicer and a custom-made 'smash-ula' for the perfect smashburger. Motz's story is a testament to the power of passion, persistence, and the pursuit of one's dreams, all centered around the iconic American hamburger.
Takeaways
- 🍔 George Moats has been passionate about burgers for over 25 years, leading him to create the documentary film 'Hamburger America' in 2004.
- 📍 Since the film, Moats has authored five books, hosted three TV shows, and opened his own restaurant, deeply embedding himself in the world of hamburgers.
- 🛍 The restaurant features two burgers that Moats believes are fundamental, tracing back to the origins of the hamburger, showcasing his commitment to hamburger history.
- 🍖 Moats' restaurant operates at a high volume, processing 1200 to 1400 pounds of beef per week, indicating its popularity and his expertise in burger preparation.
- 💻 A unique aspect of Moats' restaurant is the design that includes a forward-facing griddle, allowing him to interact with customers without turning away, enhancing the dining experience.
- 👨🍳 The restaurant employs a specialized machine to slice onions perfectly thin, a testament to Moats' attention to detail and dedication to replicating historical burger-making techniques.
- 🥗 The Smash-ula, a custom-made, heavy-duty spatula, is a tool created by Moats to perfectly smash burgers, highlighting his innovative approach to traditional burger cooking.
- 🍞 Moats emphasizes the importance of using a thick, old-school griddle that doesn't burn onions, reflecting his priority on authenticity and quality in his burger preparation.
- 📺 Sharing the story of transitioning from hosting events worldwide to making burgers in his backyard during the pandemic, Moats illustrates resilience and adaptability in the face of challenges.
- 🙏 The narrative concludes with Moats acknowledging that opening a restaurant was a dream come true, despite previously believing he would never do so, showing his deep love for burgers and their cultural significance.
Q & A
What inspired George Moats to focus on hamburgers and their history?
-George Moats' 25-year obsession with burgers and his desire to respect and document the American hamburger's history inspired him to create the documentary 'Hamburger America' in 2004, write books, host TV shows, and eventually open his own restaurant.
What unique features are highlighted about George Moats' restaurant?
-The restaurant features primary source burgers that trace back to the hamburger's origins, an 11-stool counter with a forward-facing griddle to avoid turning away from customers, a proprietary onion slicing machine for perfect thinness, and a commitment to historical accuracy, especially with the Oklahoma fried onion burger.
How does George Moats ensure the onions for the burgers are perfectly sliced?
-George Moats uses a proprietary machine that slices onions to the perfect thinness in four seconds, allowing for efficient preparation of the large quantity of onions used daily in his restaurant.
Why does George Moats prefer an old school diner setup for his restaurant?
-George Moats aimed for a design based on historical accuracy rather than a retro theme. He wanted a setup that allowed him to face customers directly, integrating a griddle facing forward into the restaurant's design.
What challenges does George Moats mention about owning a restaurant?
-George Moats highlights the constant challenge of maintenance, noting that something breaks every five minutes in the restaurant.
Why is the Oklahoma fried onion burger historically significant according to George Moats?
-The Oklahoma fried onion burger is significant because it represents a method used during hard times to extend beef supplies by using onions, reflecting a piece of culinary history and survival ingenuity.
How does George Moats' restaurant contribute to preserving hamburger history?
-By focusing on historically accurate burgers, using traditional cooking techniques, and educating customers about the history of hamburgers, George Moats' restaurant serves as a living museum that preserves and promotes appreciation for hamburger history.
What unique approach did George Moats take during the pandemic to continue serving burgers?
-During the pandemic, George Moats created the 'burger slide,' a novel way to serve burgers from his backyard to customers by utilizing a part of his kitchen closet modified to deliver bags of burgers directly to people at a set time.
What led George Moats to ultimately decide to open a restaurant?
-Despite initially believing he would never open a restaurant, the desire to create a physical space that embodied his dream, the opportunity to share his passion for burger history with a wider audience, and the need to adapt during the pandemic motivated him to take this step.
What special item does George Moats prepare that holds personal significance to him?
-George Moats prepares a burger cooked in butter without condiments, known as the burger of his youth. This hometown burger has been around for 51 years and holds personal significance because it reminds him of his time as a lifeguard.
Outlines
🍔 George Moats: From Hamburger Documentarian to Restaurateur
This section introduces George Moats, a hamburger enthusiast with 25 years of experience, known for his documentary 'Hamburger America'. He has authored five books and hosted three TV shows, culminating in the opening of his own restaurant. The restaurant features two signature burgers with historical significance. George's role evolved from educating people about hamburger history to serving them in his restaurant. The setting of the restaurant, designed as an old-school diner, reflects George's long-held vision, featuring a unique 11-stool counter with a forward-facing griddle. His day at the restaurant begins with fixing equipment and preparing ingredients, like slicing onions with a special machine for efficiency. George emphasizes the importance of each element in his restaurant, from the design to the kitchen tools, such as his custom-made spatula and sharp scraper for making perfect burgers.
👨🍳 Crafting the Perfect Smashburger: A Culinary Art
The second paragraph delves deeper into the culinary processes and philosophies at George's restaurant. It highlights the meticulous preparation of the Oklahoma fried onion burger, a historical dish. George discusses the technique of smashburgers, emphasizing the importance of cooking and preserving juices. He views the griddle like a surfer views waves, constantly adjusting to maintain quality. His restaurant operates with a unique system, dividing tasks between different stations. George also offers a variety of other dishes, including a traditional Milwaukee hot ham sandwich. The section reveals George's journey from a documentarian to a restaurateur, driven by his passion for hamburgers. He adapted during the pandemic by creating a burger slide from his home, a move that kept his dream alive. The segment concludes with George preparing a special burger from his youth, symbolizing the personal connection he has with his craft.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Hamburger History
💡Documentary Film
💡Smashburger
💡Oklahoma Fried Onion Burger
💡Proprietary Equipment
💡Restaurant Challenges
💡Burger Scholar
💡Burger Slide
💡Seasoning Technique
💡Culinary Tradition
Highlights
Narrator's 25-year obsession with burgers and creation of the documentary film, Hamburger America.
Authoring five books and hosting three TV shows in addition to running a restaurant.
Inclusion of two primary source burgers on the menu, symbolizing the origins of the hamburger.
The anticipation and excitement before opening the restaurant to a crowd of customers.
The impressive weekly usage of 1200 to 1400 pounds of beef.
The unique counter design with a forward-facing griddle, reflecting the owner's desire to engage with customers.
The invention of an onion slicing machine to achieve perfect thinness for faster cooking, a nod to old-school methods.
The emphasis on the quality and storage of beef, with a capacity to hold 700-800 pounds.
The use of a custom-made 'smash-ula' for preparing smashburgers, showcasing the dedication to traditional techniques.
The process of seasoning and preparing the griddle, highlighting the importance of old school methods in the restaurant's operations.
The unique system of the griddle and sandwich station, reflecting an efficient and effective kitchen workflow.
The focus on simplicity with the preparation of shoestring fries and a few special milks.
The historical accuracy in making an Oklahoma fried onion burger, emphasizing the use of onions as a way to extend beef supply.
The narrative of the pandemic's impact on global events, leading to the creation of the 'burger slide' as an innovative solution.
The personal touch in the preparation of a special burger, cooked in butter and without condiments, reflecting the owner's connection to his youth and hometown.
The owner's initial reluctance to open a restaurant, followed by the realization that it was a dream come true.
Transcripts
- [Narrator] I've been obsessed with burgers
easily for about 25 years now.
Hamburger America is the name of the documentary film
I made in 2004.
I have since then written five books.
I've had three TV shows and now a restaurant.
Two burgers are on the menu are there because I believe
that those are primary source burgers that go back
to the dawn of the hamburger.
There's always that moment before we open the doors.
You know within seconds the place is gonna be filled up.
We're doing 1200 to 1400 pounds of beef a week.
My job is to make people appreciate hamburger history.
My job wasn't really to feed people,
but it just became a natural next step
and I'm glad I took it.
[upbeat music]
Good morning, I'm George Moats Burger Scholar,
and this is Hamburger America.
Come on in.
[upbeat music]
We built the restaurant of my dreams.
I was not trying to do something that's silly and retro,
but based on history, what would an old school diner do?
And we actually made it happen, I can't believe it.
- [Speaker] What are you doing, George?
- I'm trying to fix something, somebody bent.
I don't know, how do you bend these things?
[person laughing]
Owning a restaurant, literally it's every five minutes
something breaks, every five minutes.
This beautiful 11 stool counter was a design
that I've had in my head for decades.
You'll notice it's a very unique setup.
There's a griddle facing forward.
I didn't wanna spend the rest of my life facing a wall
and have everybody say, George, turn around.
I wanna take your picture.
It's 10 o'clock, we gotta get going,
we're open in an hour from now.
Let's get to work, come on,
prep happens downstairs, incoming.
Oh, [beep] you have to make sure we blur out this machine.
So no one saw this, right?
This is proprietary.
Don't have to blur out Antonio, this is Antonio.
[person laughing]
All the burgers have onions and we sell a lot of burgers.
Our onions have to be the perfect thinness
so they cook faster because that's the way
they did it back in the old days.
So this thing is perfect.
That actually slices the onions
exactly the way we need them.
I used to use a deli slicer.
That's 120 to 140 movements like that for one onion.
This thing slices onions in four seconds.
We're now doing 200 pounds of onions a day.
This is the thing I don't miss,
by the way, about doing this.
So for some reason you could slice 20 onions
and be crying like a baby,
and all of a sudden, the 21st onion, you just stop,
your eyes glaze over and your body's protecting itself
against hydrochloric acid
that's coming off of onions.
How do you do it?
[speaking in foreign language]
- Oh, but the real star of the show is the beef.
Check this out.
This is where the meat is hidden.
It's roughly 700, 800 pounds, we have enough.
I think we definitely have enough.
[person laughing]
To my workstation, let's do this.
Two of the most important ingredients right here.
Onions, beef.
We look at the whole restaurant.
We make sure that the entire restaurant
is set up ready to go,
which means that if you're behind the counter,
you can do with this thing.
Let's gathering thing.
You can just put all that together, pull it towards you.
Put our menus back in here.
Ready for the next customer.
Hey Allison, look who's here.
It's our star server Allison,
we have a lot of tools here, they're all necessary.
One is my smash-ula.
In order to smash a burger,
I need my very thick 12 gauge stainless steel.
Couldn't find a spatula that was strong enough to withstand
smashing over and over and over again.
They kept breaking and bending.
So I had a friend of mine made me one.
Once you smash the burger, you need to flip it over.
You end up with a second tool, which is basically a scraper.
We sharpen them 'cause we need
to get the burger off the surface perfectly.
Sometimes we do this in front of customers.
They're like, what's happening?
It's just a sharpening stone, that's sharp.
And then when we're done, we scrape up
all the other stuff on the flat top with this.
So we're getting the seasoning set up.
We have kosher salt
and we have a special seasoned salt.
These are melter covers, this is the butter wheel.
It's big on TikTok.
[person laughing]
We toast our buns with unsalted butter.
Originally we thought we had salted butter
and we had it unsalted and we liked it
so we never changed it.
That's the way things go.
The grill takes a while to heat up.
It's ready to go now,
we usually turn it on about an hour before surface.
It's an old school, one inch thick piece of steel.
We could have chosen like a $35,000 griddle,
but we had to use an old one
because the newer models tend to burn our onions badly.
So we use the old school model that will not burn the onions
unless you really try to.
We gotta open, seriously.
It's 11 o'clock, we gotta work.
And it was definitely a show.
We like to call this hamburger Benihana,
two doubles, too single.
Making an Oklahoma fried onion burger.
I do it the historically accurate way.
People used onions
to extend their beef supply very hard times.
Probably 20 years ago I went out to Oklahoma.
I thought, that's too many onions,
but it's absolutely not too many onions, they cook down.
Smashburger cannot be hand formed.
It has to be a ball or beef.
But I like the effect
and the way the smashburger looks when it starts as a ball.
But I'm just trying to get it so that it's thin enough
that it's not falling apart,
but that it's also cooking fast.
But I was, during popups, I would make one burger.
This burger, the onion burger.
I can tell when it's ready to flip 'cause I can see it.
The edges cook, juices race to the surface.
That's when it's ready to flip.
Cheese goes on on the flip.
You can go anywhere in Oklahoma.
This is the way they're making their onion burgers.
The bun's not even toasted.
You steam the buns on top, the onions cook down.
I mean, they go to less than half their volume
and they change their color completely.
You can see that.
Look at that, it's like optimal.
We have a very unique system here.
This griddle, that sandwich station feed the counter,
the back griddles in the back expo
go out to the dining room and to go.
We have Claudia on fryer, just shoestring fries, that's it.
This is drink expos where all the drinks come from.
We have a couple of special milks in house.
We have obviously the obvious,
the New York chocolate egg cream.
This is a traditional Milwaukee hot ham sandwich right here.
It's basically thin sliced ham,
heated up on the griddle with Swiss cheese.
Another Midwestern staple.
This is the classic right here.
Literally the first burger ever made
was likely a smashburger.
The smashburger was lost at one point
to patty forming machines, to freezing methods.
And we're trying to make sure
that people appreciate that, we're bringing it back.
And what I do is I give it a little bit
of a cooked patch on one side so that when I do smash it,
it doesn't get stuck to the spatula.
People think of smashing a burger.
You lose all the juices, you're smashing a raw patty.
There are no juices, it's all un rendered fat.
Once you cook the bottom half of the burger,
all of the juices are racing to the surface to escape.
And then once you start to see the juices are at the top,
you flip it over to preserve them.
Cheese on, melt.
To me, when I'm looking at the griddle,
it's almost like the way a surfer looks at waves.
Every once in a while I have remind myself
to look up and see who's here.
Oh, hi, see.
[person laughing]
It's season salt.
It's Lawry's, Lawry's season salt.
[person laughing]
You can get as a cheeseburger or no cheese,
or you can get it all the way with very fine diced onion,
mustard and pickle.
We dope it, which means
that we get the bottom half of the bun ready to go.
And that way all we have to do is put the patty
on top of that and we're done, that's it.
Oh, look at that.
That's beautiful, beautiful.
I've always been obsessed with American hamburger.
A long time ago I was looking for
a subject for a documentary.
Somehow nobody was treating
the American hamburger with any respect.
So like a very quirky little film called Hamburger America
and ended up becoming sort of a cult favorite
among some super fans.
And here I am now, 25 years later, standing in front
of a griddle in my own restaurant.
It's a fun job, I mean,
this is the best job I've ever had, I think.
[person laughing]
Good to see you, bud.
Hey, we got a little thing happening here.
[person laughing]
During the pandemic,
I lost 14 events around the world.
George Motz's Burgerfest in Tokyo, Toronto, Paris, London.
It was incredible, and we lost them all
because of the pandemic.
So we were trying to find a way to survive
and we started making burgers in my backyard.
And I built this thing called the burger slide.
Like it was a closet.
It was a part of my closet, my kitchen closet.
I ripped it out, stuck it out my window,
and people would, could come by at like 2:30 for a double
and window would open up at 2:30
and out would come a bag of burgers.
I think if we hadn't done that, I don't know if we could
open this restaurant if I hadn't kept up practice,
positive contact.
I'm gonna make you a very special item here.
I'm not gonna say what it is.
And if you know what it's called, you can order it.
Only need to know about this.
It is the burger of my youth.
I was a lifeguard in my teens and I used
to run down the beach to get this at a different beach club.
I could eat two of these and then run back to the beach.
No condiments on this one.
It's cooked in butter.
It's perfect, it's important to me
because this is my hometown burger.
This burger's been around for 51 years.
This is my last one, but I'm actually gonna let T finish it.
I'm outta here.
- Give it up, bud.
- I do that every day and I love it.
[person laughing]
You ready T, T's got it, T's got it.
I said a long time ago that I'm not an idiot.
I'm not gonna open a restaurant.
I have so much fun just being on TV and writing books.
I mean, why would I wanna open a restaurant?
I'd be stuck in one place and here I am.
Dream come true, it's a dream come true.
Absolutely a dream come true.
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