Most Reliable 200K Mile Car? Let's Settle This!

Project Farm
28 Apr 202418:57

Summary

TLDRThe video script details an extensive restoration process of a high-mileage vehicle, emphasizing the potential of older cars to become highly reliable with proper maintenance. The narrator shares their experience of purchasing a $500 car with 200,000 miles, and investing around $11,000 in parts to enhance its reliability. The process includes repairing the front end, replacing worn-out components like the strut assembly and drive axles, addressing engine and transmission issues with new parts, and updating the vehicle's appearance with restored headlights and a new cabin air filter. The video also covers essential maintenance tasks such as changing brake fluid, replacing the thermostat, and servicing the battery. The total cost of parts and fluids is revealed to be $823, highlighting the economic benefits of maintaining a used vehicle instead of purchasing a new one. The script concludes with a comparison of the costs associated with owning a new versus a used car, and an encouragement for viewers to share their vehicle maintenance experiences and suggestions.

Takeaways

  • ๐Ÿš— Investing in a high-mileage vehicle can be a cost-effective choice if you're willing to put in the effort and money for repairs and upgrades.
  • ๐Ÿ”ง A thorough inspection and diagnostics are crucial for identifying issues like a bad thermostat or transmission problems, which are essential to address for reliability.
  • ๐Ÿ’ฐ The cost of parts and labor for refurbishing an older car can be significantly lower than purchasing a new vehicle, making it a financially sensible option.
  • ๐Ÿ› ๏ธ Regular maintenance, such as replacing worn-out brakes, struts, and drive axles, is key to extending the life of a vehicle.
  • ๐Ÿ”‹ Checking and maintaining the health of the car battery, including the electrolyte levels, is important for preventing breakdowns.
  • ๐Ÿ’ก Restoring headlights and replacing cabin air and engine filters contribute to the vehicle's performance and the driver's comfort.
  • ๐Ÿงด Using quality lubricants and fluids, such as transmission fluid and motor oil, is essential for the smooth operation of mechanical components.
  • ๐Ÿ”ฉ Replacing worn parts like serpentine belts and spark plugs can improve engine performance and prevent future breakdowns.
  • ๐Ÿ›ก๏ธ Applying a ceramic coating to the vehicle's paint can protect it from the elements and enhance its appearance.
  • ๐Ÿ“ˆ The script emphasizes the potential savings in car payments, insurance, and maintenance when choosing to refurbish and maintain a used vehicle over purchasing new.
  • โš™๏ธ A detailed vehicle maintenance checklist can be a helpful tool for keeping a used vehicle in good condition and identifying issues early.

Q & A

  • Why does the narrator prefer to buy cars with high mileage like 200,000 miles?

    -The narrator prefers to buy high-mileage cars because they are often available at a lower price, and with significant investment in parts and repairs, they can be made highly reliable.

  • What are the two trouble codes found in the vehicle's engine and transmission?

    -The two trouble codes found are P0128, indicating a low coolant temperature which could be due to a bad thermostat or malfunctioning coolant sensor, and P0847, which is related to the automatic transmission and requires replacing the third clutch pressure switch.

  • Why is the front bumper skin of the vehicle loose on both sides?

    -The front bumper skin is loose because it may not have been properly secured or could be damaged, leading to its detachment from the vehicle's body.

  • What is the issue with the headlights of the vehicle?

    -The headlights are in bad shape with scaling that is blocking quite a bit of light, and the chrome coating has delaminated from the hubcaps, affecting their appearance and functionality.

  • Why does the vehicle make a lot of noise when making sharp turns?

    -The noise is likely coming from the strut assembly, which may be worn out or damaged, requiring repair or replacement.

  • What is the significance of the ABS wire in the brake line?

    -The ABS wire in the brake line is connected to the strut and is part of the vehicle's anti-lock braking system, which is crucial for maintaining control during hard braking or in slippery conditions.

  • What is the reason for replacing the drive axles and the strut on the vehicle?

    -The drive axles and strut are replaced because they are worn out, as evidenced by the drive axle shifting inward easily and the CV boot being out of place with a worn-out CV joint.

  • Why is the coolant temperature code P0128 considered critical?

    -The P0128 code indicates that the coolant temperature has been too low, which could be due to a bad thermostat or a malfunctioning coolant sensor. This is critical as it affects the engine's ability to maintain proper operating temperature.

  • What is the process for replacing the brake shoes on the vehicle?

    -The process involves compressing and removing the spring clip, releasing tension on the brake shoes, removing the old shoes and hardware, transferring the hardware to the new brake shoes, installing the new shoes with the horseshoe clip, applying lubricant on the moving parts, and finally tightening the brakes.

  • Why is it necessary to change the brake fluid if the moisture content is over 4%?

    -High moisture content in brake fluid can lead to a reduction in boiling point and decrease the effectiveness of the brakes. It's necessary to change the brake fluid to ensure the brakes remain reliable and safe.

  • What is the total cost of parts and fluids used in the vehicle's restoration as mentioned in the script?

    -The total cost of all the parts and fluids used in the vehicle's restoration is $823.

Outlines

00:00

๐Ÿš— Restoring a High-Mileage Vehicle

The script details the process of purchasing a high-mileage vehicle for a low price and investing in parts and labor to make it reliable. It covers diagnosing issues like a noisy front end, loose bumper, and bad headlights. The vehicle has a good paint condition but requires significant repairs, including fixing the front brakes, replacing the drive axles, and addressing engine and transmission trouble codes. The focus is on transforming a $500 car into a reliable vehicle with an investment of $11,000 in parts.

05:01

๐Ÿ”ง Brake and Shock Replacement

This paragraph outlines the replacement of worn-out brake components and the process of changing brake fluid using a DIY fluid extractor. It also includes changing the rear shock absorber and the thermostat, with a focus on the importance of using the right tools and techniques. The paragraph emphasizes the need for regular maintenance and the benefits of replacing parts to ensure the vehicle's longevity and safety.

10:02

๐Ÿ› ๏ธ Transmission and Engine Maintenance

The script describes the process of changing transmission fluid and addressing an oil leak caused by an improperly installed drain plug. It also covers changing motor oil, installing a new oil filter, and replacing spark plugs and ignition coils. The importance of checking and maintaining the car battery, including adding distilled water to the electrolyte, is highlighted. Additionally, the paragraph discusses the replacement of a cracked serpentine belt and the benefits of using a portable jump starter and tire inflator.

15:02

๐Ÿงผ Exterior and Interior Refurbishment

The final paragraph focuses on enhancing the vehicle's appearance and performance. It covers cleaning and restoring the headlights, replacing the cabin air filter, repairing a windshield chip, and improving the hubcaps' appearance. The paragraph also details the creation of a fluid extractor for future fluid changes and the application of a ceramic coating for paint protection. The narrator emphasizes the cost-effectiveness of maintaining and upgrading a used vehicle compared to purchasing a new one, providing a breakdown of the total costs and potential savings.

Mindmap

Keywords

๐Ÿ’กVehicle Reliability

Vehicle reliability refers to the ability of a vehicle to perform its intended function without failure over a certain period of time or distance traveled. In the video, the theme of improving an old vehicle's reliability is central, with the car owner investing in parts and labor to ensure the car can run smoothly for many more years, thus extending its lifespan and utility.

๐Ÿ’กCoolant Temperature Sensor

A coolant temperature sensor is a device that measures the temperature of the engine's coolant and sends this information to the vehicle's computer system. In the script, a trouble code P0128 indicates a problem with the coolant temperature sensor, which could be due to a bad thermostat or a malfunctioning sensor. The sensor's proper functioning is crucial for the vehicle's engine management system.

๐Ÿ’กStrut Assembly

A strut assembly is a critical suspension component that combines the spring and shock absorber functions into one unit, providing a smoother ride and better handling. The video mentions that a clunking noise during sharp turns could be due to a worn strut assembly, which is later replaced to improve the vehicle's handling and noise issues.

๐Ÿ’กDrive Axles

Drive axles are components that transfer power from the transmission to the wheels, allowing the vehicle to move. The script describes the replacement of worn-out drive axles, which had shifted inward and showed signs of wear on the CV joint, indicating the importance of these components for the vehicle's mobility and safety.

๐Ÿ’กBrake Fluid

Brake fluid is a hydraulic fluid used in the braking system of vehicles to transmit force from the master cylinder to the wheel brakes. The video discusses the process of checking and changing the brake fluid due to high water content, which is crucial for maintaining effective and safe braking performance.

๐Ÿ’กThermostat

A thermostat is a device that regulates the temperature of a liquid, such as engine coolant, by opening or closing to allow more or less flow. In the video, the thermostat is replaced because the coolant temperature has been too low, indicating a potential issue with the thermostat's ability to regulate the engine's temperature properly.

๐Ÿ’กTransmission Fluid

Transmission fluid is the lubricant that enables the smooth operation of a vehicle's transmission system by reducing wear, providing hydraulic pressure, and carrying heat away. The video script describes the process of draining and replacing dark, used transmission fluid with new fluid to ensure the transmission continues to function correctly.

๐Ÿ’กSpark Plugs

Spark plugs are electrical devices that ignite a mixture of fuel and air in an internal combustion engine by creating a spark. The video mentions changing spark plugs, which are crucial for the engine's ignition system, and their replacement can improve engine performance and fuel efficiency.

๐Ÿ’กSerpentine Belt

A serpentine belt is a single belt in a vehicle's drive system that drives multiple components such as the alternator, power steering pump, and air conditioning compressor. The script discusses replacing a cracked serpentine belt to prevent potential breakdowns and maintain the functionality of the vehicle's accessories.

๐Ÿ’กWindshield Repair

Windshield repair involves fixing minor damages such as chips and cracks to prevent them from spreading and compromising the structural integrity of the glass. In the video, a windshield chip is repaired using a specific repair kit, which helps maintain the safety and clarity of the driver's view.

๐Ÿ’กCeramic Coating

Ceramic coating is a liquid polymer that, when cured, forms a durable, protective layer on a vehicle's paint. It offers protection from environmental elements and enhances the paint's appearance. The video script describes applying a ceramic coating to the vehicle's paint to improve its look and protect it from potential damage.

Highlights

The transcript describes the process of purchasing a high-mileage vehicle for a low price and investing in parts to make it highly reliable.

The car initially had issues with noise during sharp turns, indicating problems with the front end.

The front bumper skin was loose, and the headlights were in poor condition, with the chrome coating delaminated from the hubcaps.

The paint was in surprisingly good condition, despite the vehicle's rough appearance.

The front windshield had a crack that required repair.

The check engine light was illuminated, leading to the discovery of two trouble codes, one for the engine and one for the transmission.

The engine code P0128 indicated a potential bad thermostat or malfunctioning coolant sensor.

The transmission code P0847 required replacing the third clutch pressure switch.

The front brakes were recently replaced, so only a tire rotation was needed.

The process of replacing the drive axles and strut assembly on both sides of the vehicle is detailed, including addressing a worn-out CV joint.

The back brakes were worn out and required replacement, including a demonstration of how to safely remove and reinstall brake components.

The brake fluid had a high water content, indicating the need for a fluid change.

A DIY fluid extractor was built to facilitate the brake fluid change.

The rear shock absorber was replaced due to wear and tear.

The thermostat was replaced with a genuine Honda part, including a demonstration of how to purge air from the cooling system.

The mass air flow sensor was cleaned to improve engine efficiency.

The third clutch pressure switch was replaced with a genuine Honda part for the transmission.

Transmission fluid was changed, noting the importance of draining the torque converter for a complete fluid exchange.

The vehicle's oil change process is detailed, including the discovery of an overly long drain plug causing oil leaks.

Spark plugs were changed, and the engine sounded significantly better after the replacement.

A cracked serpentine belt was replaced to prevent noise and potential breakdowns.

The car battery was tested and found to be in good health, though the electrolyte level was topped up with distilled water.

The process of repairing a windshield chip using a Permatex repair kit is demonstrated.

Tire pressure was checked and adjusted as necessary, emphasizing the importance of regular checks.

The hubcaps were cleaned and restored using a DIY approach to improve the vehicle's appearance.

A fluid extractor was built for efficient and clean fluid changes.

The vehicle was treated with a ceramic coating to protect and enhance the paint finish.

The total cost of parts and fluids for the vehicle's restoration was $823, highlighting the cost-effectiveness of maintaining a used vehicle.

The importance of regular maintenance for the longevity and reliability of a vehicle is emphasized.

Transcripts

00:00

when a vehicle has 200,000 Mi on it most

00:02

people are trying to get rid of that

00:03

vehicle those are exactly the kind of

00:05

vehicles I want to buy so let's take

00:07

this $500 car spend $11,000 in parts and

00:10

make it highly reliable there's a reason

00:12

why my friend was able to purchase this

00:13

car for $500 when making sharp turns a

00:16

whole lot of noise is coming from both

00:17

sides of the front end this is going to

00:19

take some time and money to repair the

00:20

front bumper skin is loose on both sides

00:22

of the vehicle and the headlights are in

00:24

really bad shape the scaling over the

00:25

headlights is definitely blocking quite

00:27

a bit of light the Chrome coating has

00:28

delaminated from The Hub caps this car

00:31

is looking pretty rough the good news is

00:32

that the paint is still in pretty good

00:34

condition the front windshield does have

00:35

a crack that needs repaired the check

00:37

engine light is illuminated so let's see

00:39

what's going on with the engine the

00:40

onboard diagnostics Port is located

00:42

under the kick panel near the center

00:44

console I'll be putting together review

00:46

on budget code scanners very soon it

00:48

looks like there are two trouble codes

00:50

there's one for the engine and one for

00:51

the transmission and the engine code is

00:53

p 0128 the coolant temperature has been

00:55

too low indicating a bad thermostat it

00:57

could be a coolant sensor that's

00:59

malfunctioning but I doubt the

01:00

thermostat has ever been replaced the

01:02

trouble code for the automatic

01:03

transmission is p 0847 so we'll have to

01:06

replace the third clutch pressure switch

01:08

so this vehicle has great potential for

01:10

being highly reliable in a pretty decent

01:12

looking 200,000 Mi car the front brakes

01:14

are recently replaced so let's leave

01:16

those alone and the front tire looks

01:17

fairly even and it's time to rotate the

01:19

tires to the back of the vehicle so

01:20

let's get started working at the front

01:22

of this vehicle first I'll detach the

01:24

ABS wire in the brake line from the

01:25

strut I'm really curious about how badly

01:27

the axles are worn the windshield wiper

01:29

arm is out of the way so we can access

01:31

the three nuts at the top of the strut

01:33

now that the plastic trim is out of the

01:34

way there's plenty of space to access

01:36

the three nuts now that the three nuts

01:38

have been removed just a couple more

01:39

bolts and the strut is coming off as

01:41

Cousin Eddie says liquid Wren smells bad

01:43

but works good and both bolts were more

01:45

than tight enough that clunking noise is

01:47

more than likely coming from the strut

01:48

assembly and removing the strut takes

01:50

about 15 minutes while the strut is out

01:52

let's go and replace the drive axles and

01:54

the axle nut did come off a lot easier

01:56

than expected and the drive axle has

01:58

already shifted inward without having to

01:59

apply Force since the strut is out of

02:01

the way the actual shaft was slide out

02:03

of the Hub with plenty of room to spare

02:05

and the CV boot is out of place and the

02:06

CV joint is definitely worn out the end

02:08

of the pry bar between the transmission

02:10

and the drive axle and the drive axle

02:12

popped right out and the outer CV joint

02:14

is in really bad shape definitely glad

02:16

we're changing this one out since the

02:17

process is the same I'll go ahe and

02:19

replace the drive axle and the strut on

02:20

the passenger side of the vehicle off

02:22

camera I'll apply some lubricant where

02:23

the shaft makes contact with the

02:25

transmission seal and this blind for the

02:26

new CV axle lined up without a problem

02:28

and the drive axle is fully seated in

02:30

the transmission and the spline on the

02:32

CV slid right into the axle Hub pretty

02:34

easily and the axle nut is in place I'll

02:36

install the two bolts at the bottom of

02:37

the strut for now and won't tighten the

02:39

nut just yet I'll use the floor jack to

02:41

lift the control arm and the strut

02:43

everything is lined up and the strut is

02:44

in place all three nuts are tight and

02:46

I'll go ahead and reinstall both pieces

02:48

of plastic trim and the axle nut is

02:50

tight enough for now once the vehicle is

02:52

back on the ground I'll torque the axle

02:53

nut to the proper torque spec used in

02:55

the torque wrench the ABS sensor in the

02:57

brake line are fastened to the strut I'm

02:59

told that the front brakes recently

03:00

serviced but the back brakes are pretty

03:02

much used up let's lift the back wheel

03:03

off the ground place a jack stand under

03:05

the vehicle and then remove the back

03:06

tire fortunately the brake drum isn't

03:08

stuck a little back and forth on each

03:10

side of the brake drum and it's off with

03:12

a collection container below I'll spray

03:13

down everything with brake parts cleaner

03:15

to avoid Airborne brake dust I'd better

03:17

take some pictures just in case I forget

03:19

how everything goes back together I

03:21

could use some diagonal cutters to

03:22

really bite into the springs for easy

03:24

removal but diagonal cutters are likely

03:25

to cause a little bit of damage to the

03:27

spring there is a special removal tool

03:29

for brake Springs or you can just use

03:30

needle dose pliers before closing the

03:32

pliers I'll compress the spring now that

03:34

the spring is compressed I'll grip the

03:36

pin with the pliers and rotate the pin

03:37

90ยฐ the pen and the clip are in great

03:40

shape so let's move on to the other side

03:42

I'll compress the clip spring grip the

03:43

pin and then turn 90ยฐ and the pin and

03:45

clip look good I'll pull outward on the

03:47

brake shoes at the bottom this will

03:49

allow the shoes to move closer together

03:50

to release tension on the bottom spring

03:52

and the spring is in great shape I'd

03:54

rather not use the diagonal cutters on

03:55

the top spring so I'll lift both shoes

03:57

away from the wheel cylinder which will

03:59

release the tension on the top spring

04:00

for easy removal I'll go ahead and

04:02

remove the top spring and the adjuster

04:03

I'll go ahe and remove the parking brake

04:05

lever from the cable instead of trying

04:06

to capture this on video while

04:08

everything is suspended in the air

04:10

there's a special type of pliers

04:11

designed for removing this horse clip or

04:12

a regular pair of pliers will also do

04:14

the job a couple of gentle Taps and the

04:16

Horseshoe clip is off I'll go ahead and

04:18

remove the washer and DOW pin comparing

04:20

the old brakes to the new brakes the

04:21

shoes are just about worn out I'll go

04:23

ahead and transfer the hardware over to

04:25

the new brake shoe installing the

04:26

Horseshoe clip with pliers is easier

04:28

than removing it and the horseshoe clip

04:30

is secured in place I'll apply some

04:31

silicone grease that's designed for

04:33

brake parts onto the backing plate where

04:35

the brake shoes ride I'll reinstall the

04:36

parking brake lever onto the brake cable

04:38

I'll start reinstalling the brake

04:40

hardware beginning with the pin and

04:41

spring clip I'll compress the spring

04:43

grip and then twist the pin and the

04:45

brake shoe is secure I'll apply some

04:46

brake parts lubricant on all the moving

04:48

Parts on the brake adjuster I'll

04:49

position the brake shoe on the wheel

04:51

cylinder and then position the brake

04:52

shoe for easy installation of the top

04:54

spring the adjuster screw and Hardware

04:56

is all in place and the hold down pin

04:57

and clip are secured in place the spring

04:59

that pulls the bottom of the shoes

05:01

together is also in place and the final

05:02

spring is pretty easy to stretch to

05:04

install the new brake drum fits nicely

05:06

but the brakes do need to be tightened

05:08

I'll use a flat screwdriver to rotate

05:09

the adjuster the brake shoes are barely

05:11

coming into contact with the drum so

05:13

we're all finished new brake fluid

05:14

should be at 1% or less water content so

05:17

let's check out the moisture content

05:18

using a moisture meter and the meter is

05:20

maxed out at over 4% water content and

05:23

this definitely needs changed out you

05:24

could use a turkey baster but a fluid

05:26

extractor can reach into areas not

05:27

accessible by a turkey baster this fluid

05:29

extractor only took about 10 minutes to

05:31

build and I'll show you how to build one

05:33

later in the video the brake fluid is

05:34

very dark I just filled the master

05:36

cylinder reservoir let's put the fluid

05:38

extractor to use on changing out the

05:40

brake fluid beginning with the drum

05:41

brakes at the rear of the vehicle first

05:43

instead of using a fluid extractor

05:44

another option is to use a oneperson

05:46

brake bleeding kit the dust cap is off

05:48

of the bleeder valve and the extractor

05:49

hose is connected a fraction of a turn

05:51

is plenty so let's power up the

05:53

extractor and slowly extract the old

05:54

fluid I'll tighten the bleeder valve

05:56

occasionally and then we'll check the

05:57

brake fluid at the reservoir to avoid

05:59

running out out a brake fluid and the

06:00

fluid extractor is now pulling out new

06:02

brake fluid so we're all finished with

06:04

this corner of the vehicle I'll close

06:06

the bleeder valve and replace the dust

06:07

cap while we're already back here let's

06:09

go and change out the rear shock

06:10

absorber the three plastic buttons

06:12

holding the fabric liner in place have

06:13

been removed and the fabric liner will

06:15

just lay over I'll remove the nut that

06:16

holds a shock absorber in place as well

06:18

as the washer and bushing an impact

06:20

wrench makes very quick work of the

06:21

lower shock absorber bolt and the shock

06:23

absorber is off and this shock absorber

06:25

is definitely worn out it needs to be

06:26

replaced now that the new shock absorber

06:28

is in place all in the lower bolt first

06:30

to make it easy to line up the hole for

06:32

the bolt and the Top Nut is in place and

06:33

tightened the fabric lining is back in

06:35

place and we're all finished with the

06:36

shock let's go and replace the

06:38

thermostat next the engine is nice and

06:40

cool so it's safe to remove the radiator

06:41

cap before we drain the radiator let's

06:43

take a sample and measure the quality of

06:45

the antifreeze and the antifreeze

06:47

actually doesn't look too bad but let's

06:48

measure the ph and the concentration

06:50

level using a test kit my color vision

06:52

just isn't the best but the glycol

06:54

appears to be around 60% which is pretty

06:56

good and the pH appears to be very close

06:58

to 9 which is also good so the coolant

07:00

is still in good shape but we'll replace

07:01

the coolant that we drain out of the

07:02

system anyway and the petcot valve is

07:04

very easy to access and the antifreeze

07:06

is draining into the Container while the

07:08

radiator is draining I'll go ahead and

07:09

use the fluid extractor to clean out the

07:11

overflow tank it's not necessary to

07:13

remove the radiator hose but I'll do it

07:14

anyway to allow for a better view of the

07:16

thermostat assembly I'll go ahead and

07:18

remove the two bolts holding the bracket

07:19

for the oxygen sensor wires only two

07:21

bolts need to be removed to gain access

07:23

to the old thermostat and the two screws

07:25

are out so I'll go ahead and use a long

07:27

screwdriver to gently break the seal and

07:29

the old thermostat is out and the

07:30

thermostat is oriented with the jiggle

07:32

valve on Top This valve really comes in

07:34

handy for purging air from the cooling

07:35

system a genuine Honda thermostat wasn't

07:38

too much more than the aftermarket the

07:39

thermostat came with a new rubber gasket

07:41

and there's a carve out for the jiggle

07:42

valve the new thermostat and gasket fit

07:44

properly I'll gradually tighten each

07:46

side of the thermostat just to make sure

07:48

that everything stays in the proper

07:49

position and the two bolts for the

07:51

oxygen sensor wires are back in place

07:53

and I'll go ahead and reinstall the

07:54

radiator hose definitely a very easy

07:56

thermostat to replace this radiator has

07:58

a very small mouth and I only have one

08:00

funnel that'll work I'll use some

08:02

double-sided tape on the funnel to hold

08:03

it in place and to form a seal to avoid

08:05

spilling coolant squeezing the upper

08:07

radiator hose really helps get rid of

08:08

the air that's trapped in the system

08:10

most of the air is finally out of the

08:11

system so I'll go ahead and use the

08:12

fluid extractor to avoid making a mess

08:15

with the radiator cap installed we're

08:16

almost finished with the thermostat job

08:18

I just need to add some new premix

08:19

coolant to the overflow tank I need to

08:21

replace the air filter and while we're

08:23

at it let's go ahead and clean the mass

08:24

air flow sensor there are a couple of

08:26

clips and wiring connectors that need to

08:27

be removed in order to remove the air

08:29

filter assembly there are four buckles

08:31

holding down the air filter assembly and

08:32

the air filter is ready to come out the

08:34

air filter doesn't look too bad but

08:35

let's replace it anyway two Philips head

08:37

screws hold down the mass air flow

08:39

sensor and here are the filaments that

08:40

need to be cleaned the sensor uses these

08:42

filaments to measure the amount of air

08:44

that's entering the engine sometimes

08:45

cleaning this sensor can help the engine

08:47

operate more efficiently if you decide

08:49

to do this for your vehicle I highly

08:51

recommend using mass airflow sensor

08:52

cleaner instead of using another solvent

08:54

and the sensor is had a few minutes to

08:56

dry I'll reinstall the sensor and I'll

08:58

go ahead and clean out the inside of the

08:59

the airbox since everything is already

09:01

opened up I'll go ahead and reattach the

09:03

connector to the mass airflow sensor the

09:04

four buckles are snapped back in place

09:06

and the air filter and mass airflow

09:07

sensor job is finished let's go ahead

09:09

and replace the third clutch pressure

09:11

switch with a new one that's a genuine

09:12

Honda replacement part it's easiest to

09:14

access this sensor from underneath the

09:16

vehicle it's located on the driver's

09:18

side of the vehicle and it's very easy

09:19

to access I'll use a pick to release the

09:21

connector and the connector is a little

09:23

bit challenging to remove and the sensor

09:25

was also pretty tight there is a washer

09:26

that we need to reuse with the new

09:28

sensor the new sensor is a little bit

09:30

longer than the old one but everything

09:31

else looks the same I've cleaned up the

09:33

washer that we have to reuse so let's go

09:34

ahead and install the new sensor and the

09:36

new sensor threaded in very smoothly and

09:38

the connector fit nicely as well the

09:39

transmission fluid definitely needs to

09:41

be replaced even though that looks like

09:43

really dark used motor oil that is

09:44

indeed transmission fluid just draining

09:46

the fluid does not drain all the fluid

09:48

in the transmission since the torque

09:49

converter holds several quarts of

09:50

transmission fluid so I'll have to

09:52

repeat this process a couple more times

09:54

after driving the vehicle to freshen up

09:55

the fluid the old fluid is on the left

09:57

and the new fluid is on the right what a

09:59

difference the drain plug has a magnet

10:01

and there's a lot of metal on the magnet

10:03

fortunately I don't see any really large

10:05

pieces of metal the drain plug is back

10:06

in place so let's go ahead and add close

10:08

to three quarts of transmission fluid

10:10

I'll check the transmission fluid once

10:11

the vehicle is off the jack stands and

10:13

perfectly level let's go ahead and

10:14

change out the motor oil while we're

10:16

already under the vehicle it appears

10:17

that the oil change place installed a

10:19

new drain plug that's too long and leaks

10:20

oil I purchased a new drain plug that

10:22

fits properly and should offer a good

10:24

seal I've added some lubricant to the

10:25

new oil filter seal and the oil filter

10:27

is ready to be installed and the oil fil

10:29

filter's hand tight which is perfect so

10:31

let's add new oil and then we'll make

10:32

sure that we've added enough I've

10:34

already started the engine and the oil

10:36

level does look good but I'll need to

10:37

check it one more time once the vehicle

10:39

is back on the ground and the vehicle is

10:40

level I don't know how many miles of use

10:42

with the spark plug so let's go ahead

10:43

and change them out with brand new aums

10:45

a 10 mm nut holds down the ignition

10:47

coils the connectors need a little

10:49

squeeze to release them from the coil

10:51

the old spark plug took quite a bit of

10:52

force to break loose but it's finally

10:54

out other than the spark plug gap being

10:55

out of spec the old spark plug actually

10:57

doesn't look too bad I'll apply some

10:59

electric grease around the ceramic part

11:00

of the spark plug and the spark plugs

11:02

are ready to be installed I'll hand

11:03

tighten the spark plug just to make sure

11:05

that I don't start them off

11:06

cross-threaded I'll use a torque wrench

11:08

to torque the spark plugs this back I'll

11:09

go ahead and change out the remaining

11:11

three spark plugs install the coils and

11:12

the wiring connectors and changing out

11:14

the spark plugs is a very quick and easy

11:16

process on this vehicle not always the

11:18

case on a

11:20

V6 and the engine sounds pretty good and

11:23

a serpentine belt doesn't look too bad

11:24

but it is cracked so let's replace it

11:26

I'll place a wrench on the Belt tenser

11:28

to release the tension and the belt is

11:29

off the old belt is on the right and the

11:31

new belt is on the left as a serpentine

11:33

belt becomes dr